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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.